Walliské Alpy - popisy výstupů

--- vyberte trasu nebo výstup --- z Zermattu (1617m) k chatě Rifugio Teodulo (3317m) z Zermattu (1617m) k chatě Berghaus Flue (2617m) od Berghaus Flue (2617m) na Rimpfischhorn (4199m) od stanice Mittel Allalin (3454m) na Allalinhorn (4027m) z Täsche (1430m) na chatu Täsch Hütte (2701m) od chaty Täsch Hütte (2701m) do sedla Alphubeljoch (3792m) ze sedla Alphubeljoch (3792m) na Alphubel (4206m) z Randy (1407m) na chatu Dom Hütte (2940m) od chaty Dom Hütte (2940m) do sedla Festijoch (3723m) ze Saas Almagell (1672m) na chatu Mischabel Hütte (3340m) od Mischabel Hütte (3340m) na Nadelhorn (4327m) ze Saas Almagell (1672m) na chatu Almageller Hütte (2726m) od chaty Almageller Hütte (2726m) na Weissmies (4020m) z Kreuzboden (2397m) na chatu Weissmies Hütte (2726m) od chaty Weissmies Hütte (2726m) na Lagginhorn (4009m) od Weissmies Hütte (2726m) na Almageller Hütte (2896m)

from Almageller Hut to the summit of Weissmies

• start point: Almageller Hut (2896m)
• final point: Weissmies (4020m)
• time required for ascent: 4hrs to 5hrs
• height meters to ascend: 1200m
• huts along the way: no
• watter along the way: last water is only 100 metres above the hut
• route number: not marked past Zwischbergen pass
• i made this climb: August 2005

• gear: ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, rope if you have problems with II UIAA terrain

• difficulty:
- PD, rock II, Ice/Snow up to 35°
- high altitude, AMS risks
- with fresh snow, climb over ridge to the south peak can be tricky if you are without rope
- final snow/ice ridge can be tricky, if there's not enough snow
- in general, this climb is nothing for mountaineering rookies - experience needed!

• intro:
- the ascent of Weissmies is one the easier among Valais 4000enders (bit easier than the climb on the neighbouring Lagginhorn)
- there's no glacier crossing
- during high season, one has to count with full hut and other teams on the way (as on nearly every Valais 4000+ peak)
- the wake-up time at Almageller Hut is around 4AM

• route description:
- the first part of the climb is an easy walk on the marked route up to the Zwischbergenpass (3268m)
- this section is usually done in the might and it can be hard to find the right way
- right below the saddle one should not follow the smooth rock plate, but walk more to the left
- the path leads to southern pass (3243m) first and from here it follows a ridge to the main col (3268m), where the marked path ends


Weissmies South Summit (3972m) from Zwischbergenpass

- in the saddle one has to decide if:
- to follow a rocky ridge
- or if to walk a bit more to the right and reach the final rocky slope to the South summit over a large snow field
- time wise, it's much faster to walk over snow
- the snowfield is not more than 40° steep
- at approximately 3750m, rock scramble begins (few pitches are II UIAA, one maybe II+)
- over rock blocks and stones you get to the South Summit - 3972m
- here starts the final snow ridge, which leads to the Main Summit


final snow ridge connects the South and the Main peak

- the difficulty of this part is determinated by snow conditions of course - in every case take crampons and ice axe with you